Behind the smoothness of Hyaluronic Acid in halal skincare lies a lengthy process with many critical points to monitor. From microbial culturing to purification, each stage determines a product’s halal status, making it more than just a label claim.
Many people know Hyaluronic Acid (HA) as the ultimate moisturizing ingredient in skincare. It’s lightweight, absorbs easily, and can bind up to thousands of times its weight in water. However, few know that behind its clear texture and powerful functions lies a long, detailed process especially when a product is seeking to be categorized as halal skincare.
According to Hendra Utama, a Senior Auditor at LPPOM, AHA’s journey to halal status is not as simple as it seems. “Previously, the raw material for AHA was taken from chicken combs or cow eye fluid (vitreous humor). If the animal wasn’t slaughtered according to Islamic law, its halal status was questionable,” he explained. Today, technology is advancing rapidly, hyaluronic acid (AH) production methods are increasingly diverse, and halal critical points are also changing.
The following is a complete flow of the halal critical points for Hyaluronic Acid. This journey helps us better understand why halal certification for a single ingredient can require such stringent oversight.
1. From Microbial Culture to Genetic Modification: The Beginning of AH
In the modern era, hyaluronic acid (AH) is no longer derived from animals. Bacteria such as Streptococcus zooepidemicus and Bacillus subtilis have now become “small factories” that produce AH. To achieve a certain quality or concentration, these bacteria are often genetically modified. However, this is where the first halal critical point arises: the genetic material used in the modification can come from haram sources, such as pigs or humans.
The nutrient media and enzymes used in bacterial growth also require attention. If microbial cultures are preserved by freeze-drying (lyophilization), cryoprotectants such as glycerol must be sourced from halal sources. Lactose also deserves attention, as it is a byproduct of the cheese industry and is highly dependent on the coagulating enzymes used.
2. Growth Media: Microbial “Food” That Determines Halal Status
For AH-producing microbes, the growth medium serves as an energy source. This is where many potential halal issues arise.
Nitrogen sources, for example, often come from peptone—hydrolyzed proteins from various sources. If they come from cattle, they must be slaughtered according to Islamic law. Otherwise, they become moderately impure. Products derived from impure media can be considered halal only if they undergo complete separation and purification processes in accordance with Islamic law. Otherwise, the product becomes mutanajis and automatically haram.
Peptone from soybeans and casein (milk) are safe but still require precision: what is used for hydrolysis? Options include hydrolysis with citric acid, bovine rennet, microbial rennet, or porcine rennet. If rennet is derived from pork, then all derivatives of soy peptone and casein in the production chain automatically become severely impure.
Hydrolyzing enzymes can also be a critical point of halal certification. There are many cases where the main ingredient is halal, but the enzyme is not.
The same applies to yeast extract. Yeast that has been involved in the production of alcoholic beverages must be ensured to be purified according to Sharia before being used as a raw material.
Meanwhile, glucose, as a carbon source, is usually derived from corn or tapioca, but the enzymatic process that accompanies it can contain enzymes from haram sources. Even auxiliary materials such as activated charcoal or ion-exchange resin can be sources of non-compliance if they are derived from animal bones or non-halal gelatin.
3. Process Aids: Small But Decisive
On an industrial scale, bacterial fermentation can produce excessive foam. This is where antifoams or defoamers come into play. However, fatty acid ester-based antifoams are a critical point for halal certification because the origin of the fat must be clear.
Similarly, specific vitamins and growth factors are also sourced from microbial processes. Every stage must be checked: the microbes, the media, and the auxiliary materials.
4. AH Harvesting and Purification: A Clean Process That Must Remain Halal
Once the AH concentration is optimal, the purification process begins. At this stage, many additional materials are involved. For example, precipitation using ethanol. “Ethanol is permissible as long as it is not from the liquor industry,” Hendra emphasized. Other alternatives, such as Cetylpyridinium Chloride (CPC), also need to be investigated, as they are derived from fatty acids that may not be halal.
Secondary purification using resin, activated carbon, or ultrafiltration is also critical. Activated carbon from animal bones should be avoided, and ion-exchange resins often contain gelatin, so their manufacturing processes must be verified.
5. Final Product Additives: The Final Touch That Still Needs to be Monitored
In halal skincare products, hyaluronic acid rarely stands alone. It is often combined with glycerin, buffers such as citric acid, or other ingredients. All of these additives carry potential halal critical points. Glycerin, for example, must be guaranteed not to be derived from non-halal animal fat. Citric acid is also a microbial product, so its entire production chain needs to be verified.
6. Cross-Contamination: A Major Challenge in the Halal Skincare Industry
Production facilities house a variety of products, some of which may not be halal. If bioreactors or other equipment are used interchangeably without proper cleaning procedures, cross-contamination can occur. This can render initially halal hyaluronic acid non-halal.
Furthermore, the supply chain also poses similar risks. Media, additives, or auxiliary materials stored with unclean goods can become contaminated, so this aspect must be closely monitored.
The journey of hyaluronic acid from microbes to halal skincare ingredients is a long process, complete with halal critical points. From microbial cultures and nutrient media to enzymes, fermentation processes, purification, additives, and the supply chain, all have the potential to impact halal status.
For consumers, understanding this complexity adds value to the halal label on skincare packaging. It’s not just a sign, but a representation of the long process that ensures a product is safe, clean, and compliant with Islamic law.
To support cosmetics manufacturers, LPPOM, as the Halal Inspection Body (LPH), is actively innovating by providing a range of services to facilitate business owners in the halal product inspection process. One such program, the Halal On 30 program, accessible at bit.ly/HalalOn30, offers practical explanations of the halal certification process so business owners can understand it without spending a lot of time. (HU/YN) Source: https://halalmui.org/jurnal-halal/175/
